感覺很值得參考，目前往11a邁進
擷取General Guidelines段落
Climb
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Establish a weekly training schedule and stick to it.
建立每週訓練計畫，並好好執行它 -
Climb 2 to 4 days/week; never more than 2 days in a row.
每週爬兩到四天，「連續爬」的次數不超過兩次（例如：一、二、四、六） -
Warm up with light aerobic exercise, dynamic stretching, and easy climbing.
用輕量級有氧、動態伸展還有簡單的路線熱身 -
Take at least 1 day of total rest each week.
一週完整休息一次 -
Focus on holds, angles, and moves encountered in Ten Sleep; use your route’s beta to guide training route setting.
針對目標路線進行研究（這裡的Ten Sleep是一條5.12a的路線） -
Spend 1 or 2 first-days-on (your first day climbing after a rest) bouldering each week.
完整休息的第一天，進行抱石訓練 -
Incorporate 4x4 power-endurance training 1x/week. Climb 4 12- to 20-move boulder problems 4 times each, with 1 to 5 minutes of rest between each problem.
每週進行一次4x4力量耐力訓練，爬12-20個點的抱石路線四條，每條路線爬4次，中間休息1-5分鐘。 -
Incorporate high-intensity endurance training 1x to 2x/ week. Climb 3 to 7 routes with 20 to 25 pumpy moves to a resting hold. Shake out and recover, then climb for another 15 to 20 moves.
每週進行一到兩次高強度的耐力訓練，攀登3-7條20-25個點的長路線，在牆上休息後一下，再繼續爬（岩館上下攀數次應賅算）
Strength
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Weight train 2x/week right after climbing or the day after; don’t climb to exhaustion and then weight train.
在攀岩後或隔天進行重量訓練，每週兩次，盡可能避免爬到力竭 -
Rest 2 days between each weight session.
重量訓練間休息兩天 -
Day 1: Pull-ups/lat pull-downs; tricep push-downs/dips; rows; wrist curls; reverse wrist curls.
Day1: 引體向上/背部下拉(訓練背肌) ;下推(訓練三頭肌); 腕部捲曲訓練、反向腕部捲曲訓練(訓練前手臂肌肉) -
Day 2: Deadlifts; squats; bench presses/push-ups; military presses; captain’s chair leg lifts.
硬舉(下背部、臀部肌肉);握推/伏地挺身(胸肌);槓鈴上舉;captain’s chair leg lifts(核心) -
Rest 3 minutes between sets of same exercise.
組間休息三分鐘 -
Do weighted finger curls 1x to 2x/week. See “Efficient Finger Training” sidebar.
每週訓練兩次手指強度 -
The last week of each month, do 1 set (lighter reps) of each exercise, and take extra rest days.
